Dior showcases Fall 2023 ready-to-wear collection in Paris

Instead of revisiting archival designs or reflecting on a modern version of Betty Draper, Maria Grazia Chiuri delved into the stories of three heroines who marked the post-war years in Paris with their presence. Member of the French Resistance, sister of Christian Dior Catherine, singers Edith Piaf and Juliette Greco formed the basis of the collection shown on the catwalk.

"Their style, independence and artistic vision were truly revolutionary for the time," Chiuri said as she opened the show. “These women, close to me in spirit and aesthetics, gave me a way to rethink the archive, and also reminded me of the codes of the House.”

In total, 96 images were presented in the model range, the basis of which were bustier dresses and pleated skirts. And they would fit in well in the first season of Mad Men. But Chiuri "spoiled" these neat silhouettes with the help of an aged surface effect, using fabrics with a metallic thread in some places.

“If we think about the Dior silhouette, it's kind of well defined. With this addition of metal, everything loses that idea of clarity,” she says. Leather gloves and cat-eye sunglasses gave a casual look to the black crinkled chemise dress, while hourglass jackets with tulip sleeves were presented unbuttoned over black bras.

In a crumpled plaid skirt, sheer bow blouse and frayed leather coat, the model, with flowing eyeliner and a Jean Seberg pixie cut, looked like she'd spent the night discussing existentialism in a smoky cafe on the Left Bank of the Seine. Checkered coats, fleece sweaters and tight skirts created a real student atmosphere on the catwalk.

The floral prints were borrowed from a Chinese fabric archive shared with Chiuri by Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos. She also decorated the hall with one of her monumental textile "Valkyries", named after warriors from Scandinavian mythology.

“We started with the same reference,” Chiuri says. Sequins shone on a series of chic black evening gowns, echoing the lights that pulsed on the tentacle-like structures looming over the audience. "Je ne regrette rien" rippled on a white T-shirt, and Piaf's voice echoed from the speakers.

Chiuri says it was a little intimidating to present the collection to new boss Delphine Arnaud, who took over as chairman and CEO of Christian Dior Couture in February.

“Perhaps this is the first time I have made a collection so close to Paris and the heritage of the Maison,” said the designer, who has been with Dior for seven years. “I think these three women are synthesizing the spirit of Paris, but of course, this is my take on things as Italian. I hope it doesn't look too stereotypical."

While the trench coats and berets lived up to the popular myth of the Parisian woman, her collection was a far cry from the colorful gaudiness propagated by television, such as Emily in Paris. With its enveloping seduction and sidelong glances at '90s minimalism, Chiuri's "ode to Paris" was such that even her muses were left behind.