Hermès Shows Part of Fall-Winter 2024/2025 Collection in New York

“The sky is the limit, that’s what New York is,” said Nadéje-Vane Cybulski, creative director of Hermès women’s line, commenting on the second part of the Fall/Winter 2024/2025 collection. It was shown in the Big Apple last night, while the first was shown in Paris in February of this year.

Guests' spirits were lifted as soon as they arrived at Pier 36, where dozens of suspended yellow traffic lights swung above the catwalk. The show attracted a large number of potential customers from all over the world. Among them were musicians Usher, Tierra Wack, actors Morgan Spector, Rebecca Hall and others, who wanted to enjoy a "New York minute" that lasted well into the night.

Once the show was over and the curtain fell, Hermès opened an after-party called Manhattan Rocabar on an outdoor waterfront terrace, complete with a DJ set (played by Rahill, Caroline Polachek, and Honey Dijon), cocktails, and catering from famed eatery Carbone. At the pre-show press conference, Nadéje-Vane described it as a sister show to the one held during Paris Fashion Week in February. But while the luxury motifs were echoed, the New York outing was younger, more urban, and sexier.

"A zigzag between Paris and New York" began with brightly colored and printed pieces inspired by horse and motorcycle traditions, mixed with the eclectic style of the US East Coast, as observed by the designer, a former New Yorker.

Taxi yellow outerwear with leather trim; traffic light red and bright blue turtlenecks with double rosette collars; wool jersey equestrian jackets; quilted motorcycle helmets and a variety of elegant leather trousers created the atmosphere of the American band Tribe Called Quest's track "Luck of Lucien".

The designer continued to amplify the big-city vibe with silk scarves and cashmere knitwear combinations, adorned with the brand’s traditional “rocabar” striped motif. Striped knit dresses and sets with luxurious leather inserts were further developed, as shown by Paloma Elsesser and Irina Shayk. When the palette changed to black and white, sheepskin jumpsuits became a wardrobe must-have.

The looks were complemented by elegant footwear for city walks, including leather cowboy boots, familiar from the Paris show, now also in white. Chunky, multi-layered jewelry was also used, including studded cuff bracelets from Colliers de Chiens; leather mariner caps (present on all the models), as well as scarves, chains and leather belts. Kelly bags were both large and small, perfectly suited to the wardrobe of a metropolitan woman, including envelope-style options and mini-bags placed on belts.

Nadezhda-Vane tried to create the collection in the form of a kind of patchwork quilt of New York personalities, psychological types and styles, inspired by the street and combining Parisian piquancy and the elegance of the Big Apple. And for this, it was definitely worth going on a big fashion trip.