Marc Jacobs Fall 2024 RTW Collection: Let's Play Hollywood

“I believe in living life as it is, free from the approval and permission of absurd conservatism and social norms,” said Marc Jacobs, 61, before his Fall 2024 ready-to-wear show. Although his runway show lasted only six minutes, it caused an immediate shock and left a big impression. On the catwalk, one could see Marilyn Monroe from the film The Seven Year Itch (1955) in a white dress fluttering over the air conditioning grate of the New York subway. Or the prototype of Minnie Mouse in a red dress with white polka dots, as well as princess dresses from Disney classics. There were other references to famous works of art, but those gathered had no doubt that the new MJ collection was full of energy of different characters.

Lately, Jacobs has increasingly allowed himself to speak out on controversial topics in his collections. What would the world look like if he were in charge? And he answers: it would be a safe place for everyone, but especially for weirdos who wear oversized shoes and clothes with cartoonish proportions, which counter the boring “quiet luxury” trend of exaggeration.

But at the same time, Mark is quite capable of conveying a message of solid, classic, elegant clothing. According to him, one of his favorite collections is the autumn 2010 collection, where the conservative style blossomed in full bloom. Now, however, as is evident from his creative searches, he is in a completely different reality. "I enjoy dressing up, choosing accessories and expressing myself. I am very interested in putting together these fun puzzles," he said in an interview with Vogue.

Some of those playful puzzles were on display on the runway, and the fall line was a continuation of his spring 2024 hit, only with the doll clothes given a Hollywood sheen – Marilyn Monroe, Minnie Mouse, and all the other characters on the show. The designer also threw in a throwback to his legacy, having celebrated his brand’s 40th anniversary in February. A button-down skirt suit, familiar from his more reserved days, was cut in a form-fitting, wrinkled shape, while a lace dress accentuated the hourglass silhouette befitting an animated heroine star. Acid-colored sweaters and skirts looked provocative on models styled like Plain Janes. There was even a yellow polka-dot bikini that was reminiscent of doll clothes, but looked interesting on an adult model.

The designer played with the proportions of the clothes with his characteristic humor. The interior of the New York public library, where the show was held, played into his hands. The models walked along a very long corridor, which created the illusion of exaggerated clothing. With unusual shapes, bright colors and crazy shoes, Jacobs turned the world on its axis for a moment. "The future remains unwritten," he noted in the notes to the show.